Photo by Francois Le Nguyen ()
Emily Chow is anIPilogueWriter and a 1L JD Candidate at Osgoode Hall Law School.
2022 is primed to be an important year for humanity’s actions against global warming. COP26 (Conference of Parties) . It generated momentum that must continue to meet the goal of the by 2050: to reduce the Earth’s temperature by 1.5°C. 196 Parties adopted this internationally binding treaty. With the additional challenges brought forth by COVID-19, (net)zero-carbon solutions urgently need to be implemented across all levels and structures. The from this collective responsibility to reduce greenhouse gas emissions. It has the capacity to usher in radical, life-saving changes. One way is through the
According to the World Economic Forum, eight industries generate : agriculture, construction, fashion, fast-moving consumer goods (“FMCGs”), electronics, automotive, professional services, and freight. This article discusses the role of fashion in climate change, and more importantly, highlights some textile innovations and organizations demonstrating the core values of circular economies.
Circular Economies: An Overview
A “circular” economy is more than a corporate citizenship buzzword or a . The three key pillars, or goals, supporting circular economic systems are: to. True circular production generates products and materials that can be reused, repaired, or remanufactured, thereby eliminating the concept of “waste” generated through consumer capitalism. These systems emulate what is inherent within nature’s ecological systems, such as and or cycles.
The Case for Fashion
Fashion, and by extension any forms of creative self-expression, potentiate important sociopolitical spaces for and individuals. Fashion can be , and . It can be responsive to or representative of . Fashion coalesces and will continue to so long as culture exists. It is also plain fun to feel good in what you’re wearing and for your clothing to represent you.
The fashion industry has roots across including (pun intended), retail, , , . Remedying the supply chain can , which struggle to fund expensive decarbonization efforts given their low profits relative to high emissions. Consumer-facing industries like fashion generate higher profits per ton of emissions, and thus can pass along decarbonisation costs in .
Along with the benefits of a circular economic system come concerns of and the privilege inherent in purchasing an expensive item upfront. Not to mention, the capacity to make climate-informed decisions further depends on sizing and access inclusivity for all ǻ徱— of the fashion industry. However, many and have demonstrated the power in , , to one of slow fashion. , much of which is spurred by and a culture of consumption (think of TikTok or , hauls, ‘shop with me’ videos, negative associations of wearing something twice, etc.).
While the solution isn’t perfect, as an individual starting point, we can begin to unpack the small ways we as individuals can reassess our spending habits. Some mindfulness questions we can make a habit of asking ourselves are: What about [item] do I like or dislike (e.g., price, fit, colour, material)? Do I have anything similar? Can I get this second-hand? Will this material/style last several seasons? Do I see myself wearing this a few years from now?
Ultimately, structural change from the top-down must also occur to remedy our current climate. Yet investments made towards technological innovation and zero-emissions solutions have already proven to be profitable, sustainable, and . Furthermore, the collective push towards , , business certifications (such as , ), and is extremely promising.
Fashion’s Patented Innovations
I am really looking forward to seeing how the above movements evolve and respond to the coming year ahead. I am also excited about the increased adoption of patented materials and products! The production of synthetic textiles, garment-making, and the supply chain generates . Introducing nature-based solutions in agriculture and textile processing will be key to reducing greenhouse gas emissions.
, , , and are a few companies building towards a circular economy in an exciting way.
Mycoworks is a San Francisco-based company with a for Fine Mycelium that has developed a called REISHI™: a made-to-order, vegan, and biodegradable yet durable leather. Last year, they made headlines with their , whose classic “Victoria” style was remade with Fine Mycelium and named .
AlgiKnit makes patent-pending kelp-based yarns and textiles in New 91ɫ. Their closed-loop product life cycle allows them to break down end products to be remade into new ones. This seaweed-based yarn allows manufacturers to excise highly toxic chemicals from the treatment process, protecting workers from dangerous and . AlgiKnit produced a , and one can only imagine the streetwear implications this new material could have. Furthermore, the company announced the opening of an , where they will work with global brands to adopt new biotechnological textile innovations.
Lenzing’s TENCEL Lyocell and Modal fibres are fibres originating from responsibly managed forests in Austria. They use a non-woven spinning process that recycles the water and solvents at a rate of more than 99%. These fibres have been certified biodegradable and compostable
ALT TEX, a homegrown Toronto start-up, is a former client of the IP Innovation Clinic at Osgoode Hall Law School. Founders Myra Arshad and Avneet Ghotra have developed a novel bio-polymer technology that re-engineers sugars extracted from food waste into a fibre substitute to , which is made of plastic. ALT TEX’s closed-loop, biodegradable, and carbon neutral textile is a game-changer with the potential to replace polyester entirely, which makes up over 60% of textile manufacturing.
Further Engagement:
Aja Barber’s Consumed, a book on the textile industry’s racist, colonial, and exploitative history, and how to empower yourself by unlearning the mentality of mass consumerism:
Intersectional Environmentalist, a climate justice community centering BIPOC and historically excluded voices:
Social/climate activists Stevie (aka ), Summer Dean ()
Second-hand, Consignment and Thrift stores (to name a few!): , , Facebook Marketplace,
Fashion Impact Fund, supporting women entrepreneurs and the fulfillment of UN’s Sustainable Development Goals:
Ecologi, a climate-positive investment subscription where you can support environmental projects as a business or individual supporter: